Bottom line: before printing polycarbonate, confirm four things: the filament is thoroughly dried, the hot end can hold the required temperature, the printer has a heated chamber or enclosure, and the bed and adhesion strategy suit PC. Skipping any of these produces bubbles, warping or weak layers that no parameter tweak will fix.
Pre-print checks
| Check | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Drying | per TDS, often 80–120 °C |
| Hot end | 270–300 °C class |
| Bed | 100–120 °C class |
| Chamber | enclosure or active heating |
| Adhesion | surface and adhesive matched to PC |
| Geometry | radii, ears and wall count |
Process notes
- Keep the filament dry during printing.
- Cool slowly after printing.
- Use a wear-resistant nozzle if the grade is filled.
- Validate layer strength in the load direction.
- Anneal only if the grade and dimensions allow it.
Costly mistakes
- Printing without drying.
- Open-frame printing.
- Fast cooling.
- Thin walls under load.
- Assuming all PC grades behave the same.
Buyer / engineer checklist
- Is the filament dried and kept dry?
- Can the hot end reach the temperature?
- Is the chamber heated?
- Is adhesion reliable?
- Has the part been strength-tested?
Tell us the printer and part requirements and we can confirm whether PC is practical.Printing advice